![]() ![]() The original Petzl Grigri was released in 1991 and it revolutionized the art of belaying for rock climbing. Its dimensions are 7 x 7 x 2 inches and it weighs 10.4 ounces.Auto-locking mode for belaying from above.Can be used with a single rope or double ropes.Can be used for either double or single ropes.Locks the rope against the carabiner in the event of a fall.These devices require less strength than having to support all the braking weight with just your body. They provide assistance beyond just holding the rope with your arm, where the rope is pinched between the device and the carabiner. The next step up from ATC type devices are assisted braking devices known as passive braking. ATC is now sometimes used by climbers as a generic term to refer to any similarly designed “tuber” belay device such as the Petzl Verso and the DMM Bug. The ATC initials stand for Air Traffic Controller, and it was named to help you land on the ground. Comes in a variety of different colours ( ruby, red, platinum, denim, and black).This is the single rope version, but it is available in a double rope version as well.It has no moving parts, but some people find it easier to control than a simple figure 8 device due to its angle and the greater distance that the loop allows it to sit from your harness without other special extending gear.ĪTCs provide a bit more control over positioning of the rope than a figure 8, but it is also a little bit more restriction.ĪTC devices usually cost a little bit more than a figure 8 device, but they are still very affordable. The ATC is a belay tubular device created by Black Diamond. Works well with double 8.1 mm ropes up to 11 mm single lines.Made of aluminum and weighs less than 1 pound.A smooth, modern-looking figure 8 design.There are no moving pieces, they are extremely lightweight, and they are generally the most affordable of the belay devices.įigure 8s are more popular for rappelling than they are for belaying, due to the ease of increasing the speed that the rope moves by simply moving your arm. ![]() It allows for smooth rope action while you are belaying. The Figure 8 is the simplest and lightest belay devices you can use. Take a look at some of our favorite belay devices and we hope you’ll learn more about belay gear and figure out which one is best for you. We have grouped belay devices into different categories that show how they have evolved over the years:įigure 8s, ATCs, Passive Assisted Braking Devices, and Active Braking Devices. The available belay devices all range from inexpensive (around $15) to pricey ($150 and up) and offer different things in terms of ease of use, assistance with braking, and additional safety features. It is important to learn and practice this technique until it’s completely natural and habit, no matter what type of climbing belay equipment you use. In all cases, you should never let go of the rope with your brake hand while belaying. Some belay devices offer more safety features, and others require less work to use them. The point of a belay device is to help you, the belayer, manage the rope for the climber while they climb, help you catch the fall, and to lower your climber down once they’ve finished.īelay devices can also be used to rappel (or abseil) down to the base of the cliff you are climbing which is sometimes necessary. ![]()
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